OEM Sensors and switches

Types: There are two main types: potentiometer and hall effect (see adjacent picture). The wiring and calibration process is the same, but the voltage outputs will differ.
5v supply: There are generally two 5v inputs, one for each internal sensor.
Sensor ground: There are generally two sensor grounds, one for each internal sensor.
Signals: There are two different signal wires, usually they provide different signals to the ECU and the ECU is configured to know how the two differing voltages correlate.
Troubleshooting: Hall effect style require an oscillioscope on the signal wire, the potentiometer style require a multimeter to check voltage output.
Examples in picture: I've included Toyota's as an example, I prefer to not use this since the pedal assembly and sensor are one unit. The 350Z/G35 style is what I'm using in my car. It's simple, reliable, easy to remove the sensor so I can weld and custom fit it to my car, and if I need to replace the sensor it will cost approx $20 now that I have the pedal arm modified to fit my IS300, as shown in my YouTube video here. More info on this upgrade below.
Acronyms: Voltage Constant Pedal Angle is VCPA (5v), EPA is Earth Pedal Angle (sensor ground), VPA is Voltage Pedal Accelerator (signal wire). VPA2, EPA2 and VCP2 are for sensor 2
Older 4 wire sensors: In aftermarket situations when using a cable drive throttle plate, you'll likely be using a 4 wire sensor. One of these wires is 5v, one is sensor ground, and two are signal wires (though in an aftermarket setup you'll likely only use one signal wire).

Large Throttle Body: One of the primary benefits of this is the ease of use with a larger throttle body on a small to medium sized engine. In my situation I have a throttle body that is about 30% larger than my original TB. This can cause problems with drivability on a cable throttle but I was able to customize my pedal to throttle table. So now I have a more subtle throttle movement at the beginning of the pedal making takeoffs easier, but I still have the advantages of a larger throttle body!
Less agressive throttle in higher gears: The snapshot in the adjacent picture is of my Haltech NSP software throttle curve. I've added a y-axis for different gears. Notice how the throttle gets less agressive in the middle of its range, this is to keep me from accidentally "lugging" the engine by applying too much throttle when I get to higher gears.  
"Launch control": If you look at my "N" pedal you'll notice the curve is relatively flat, this allows me to press the pedal to where it opens slowly and allows the throttle to only open slightly upon launch. Since the ECU determines my gear based on movement I can put the car in 1st and press the throttle while it thinks the car is in neutral, then once the ECU detects movement the ECU will see first gear and allow the throttle to open to a higher percentage quickly.

DBW modes: If you look directly beneath each chart in the adjacent picture, there is a 4, 5, 6 and 7 with an arrow pointing to them. This is from a 12 position dial and settings 4-7 adjust the throttle curve. On the 12 position dial, settings 4 and below are "diagnostic", setting 5 completely shuts off throttle, 6 is my valet/wife mode, and 7+ is all agressive throttle. Settings 8+ aren't shown here, they raise boost targets. Above setting 7 the throttle acts the same as setting 7. Below setting 4 the throttle curve is the same as 4.
Diagnostic mode: This will allow me to still "limp" the car home if my DBW fails. Settings 1 and 2 on the dial will raise the idle to 2k RPM and 2.5k RPM respectively. This allows me to limp the car home while adjusting between settings 1, 2 and 3 for different high-idle settings and effectively drive the car home slowly. Settings 1, 2 and 3 are not shown in this picture since they adjust idle on another page in the Haltech NSP software.
Dead throttle mode: Setting 5 completely kills the throttle so I can park the car and walk away while the turbotimer counts down if I need to, and no one can drive it unless the hidden dial is found.
Valet and Wife mode: My wife has admitted she is afraid to drive my car, so I added a setting (6) for her that severely tames the throttle. Burnouts are difficult since the boost level is also limited at this setting, so I don't need to worry about valet drivers being dumb.